M88A1G

The huge amount of small parts combined with that big hulk is overwhelming – value for money – That’s the first impression! The kit comes with a few very useful PE parts, however I had to purchase even more PE, but more about this later on.
On second sight you will find that a huge amount of parts is either used for the U.S. version only or that the second sprue “H” has about 50% additional parts that will go directly to the spares box! Not bad either.

A-MAST:
Decide first if you want the A-mast to be movable, retracted or erected.
I suggest you decide for a retracted or erected option as the movable option does not really add to realism – you cannot make all that wiring look real retracted and in use at once. The mechanisms’ parts B5/6/7/8/9 can be omitted therefore. The A-mast is really delicate to handle so I have decided to add it as late as possible to avoid damage.
The PE parts supplied by REVELL are quite hard and inflexible, but this it very helpful as the baskets they will form are rather big parts and need to be handled more than once. EDUARD’s soft metal would have a problem here.
I did not use the Parts G2 and G3 as it is not possible to get them bend in the right fashion. I replaced them with adhesive tape cut to correct length.
Always take extreme care with the steps on the A-mast, they are really flimsy and will brake easily, therefore I painted the vehicle before fixing the mast and wiring – take your time and check carefully if you want the wiring to fold naturally.

HULL:
As I wanted the blade lowered the first step was to adjust the roadwheels. The first two lifted and the last three recoiled under the vehicles’ weight. The shock absorbers B7 and B6 had to be separated and adjusted.
For ease of handling and painting I do never attach the track or drive sprocket prior the kits completion.
Before adding all those little handles and parts to the hull do consult your references. The german version M88A1G has quite a few differences that need to be attended to.
On the front glacis the attachment points for the additional light B12 and A23 have to be sanded and filled as it is not used on the german version though the instructions tell you to attach it! As well the support A25 for the second block is not in use, fill the attachment points before adding bits and pieces to the hull. On the left and right front end of the hull attachments (little bars) are moulded, these have to be cut away. Closely consult your references (or my pics) before attaching the tools. The positioning is not clearly visible from the instructions.

EDUARD PE parts
Apart from the set included in the kit I had to purchase a set from EDUARD as, like almost every modeler, I broke the headlights guards on removing them from the sprue: I tried cutting with the circular saw, basically it worked, but when it came to sanding the guards I broke one after the other….
Don’t waste your time on them, get EDUARD’s set. Even if it is designed for the U.S. version it gives you all necessary detail you need and is well worth the money.

FINISHING:
I used bare metal foil for the rearview mirrors.
As REVELL, like so many others is obviously not able to print a decent iron cross or MLC sign I replaced these with the excellent ones from TRUCK LINE Decals. The colour scheme is a late three tone scheme with washes of thinned black added. All in all I can say that the kit is well worth the money but you have to be prepared to invest more than the usual amount of time to get this done.

Sources :
THE INTERNET
Walter Böhm, Peter Siebert - CONCORD Publication - FRANCO-GERMAN BRIGADE
ISBN 962-361-038-6